What Doesn’t Work For Germination And Sprouting
1. First, you can accidentally kill your seeds with a strong enough application of cold, heat, moisture, or a combination of these three. This can happen at home if you leave the seeds outdoors overnight, leave them on a sunny windowsill or in the sun anywhere (where the seeds can get up to 140 degrees on a really sunny day!), or let the seed packets get damp or wet (they will mold then!). So, keep seeds dry and warm indoors until you need to use them, then get them back to a protected spot as soon as you’re done. It’s really difficult to get dead seeds to germinate!
(Below) Sad the life!
2. Don’t use peat or store-bought “potting mixes” instead of the coco coir/vermiculite mix we recommend (we’ll call it CV from now on for simplicity). First, these types of potting mixes hold far more moisture than the CV mix does, and are less “airy”, allowing less oxygen to the developing plant’s roots, if used in a flood and drain sprouting table. As a result, the plant roots often simply rot off, or “damp off”, and die at some point in the sprouting table.
In addition, these types of potting mixes often bring pythium or fusarium molds along with them, even though they say they’re “sterilized”. Both of these molds can become epidemic in your aquaponic system given the right conditions, and can also be difficult to get rid of. Don’t take the chance, there’s no cheese at the end of this tunnel!
3. Don’t use dirt instead of the CV potting mix! Plant roots develop differently in dirt than they do in the CV potting mix, and appear to simply rot off, or “damp off”, and die when they’re put into the rafts where their roots are wet all the time.
4. There’s no need to use larger, more expensive pots (that occupy more aquaponic “real estate”): we grew a 7-pound taro and a 2.87 pound turnip (root vegetables) as well as bulbing onions, in 2-inch pots. They simply grow on top of the raft. We never use 3-inch pots now, because everything grows just fine in 2 inch pots, and we get far more of them into every square foot of raft space, which equals more production from the same-sized system.
What follows from this (of course!) is that there’s also never any need to “repot”; that is, take a plant out of a small pot and put it into a bigger pot. This is a good way to either kill a young plant or retard its growth so that it never achieves full size.
5. Don’t “recycle” your CV potting mix. We found when we re-used our potting mix that our “germination rate” dropped to 50% (this means only half of our seeds sprouted). We don’t know why, but we do know enough to stop doing things that don’t work.
6. We tried using red and black volcanic cinder for potting mix. The black cinder worked great! The plants grew better, faster, and had excellent germination rates. Except that after two or three planting cycles, the pots started shredding and we had to throw them away.
We found that when the plant’s roots grew, they forced the cinder out through the sides of the pot, breaking them. We’d gone from throwing away CV planting mix that cost us $0.001 (one-tenth of a cent) each planting cycle to throwing away pots that cost us $0.03 (three cents) after two or three uses (and we didn’t actually “throw away” the used CV mix; it went into the compost, and was of further benefit to our farm there). Our potting expense went up by a factor of ten as a result of this, and we were throwing away a “non-recyclable” plastic pot instead of recyclable potting mix.
This is hugely important for a commercial operation. Even at the small scale we operated at, this added a penny to each month’s cycle of 25,000 pots, or $250 per month and $3,000 per year. Every little bit counts when you’re running a commercial operation!
7. We also tried “rock wool cubes” with less than inspiring results; we used the “Oasis cubes”, plus other brands. Our results included poor germination, much higher costs, and more labor when compared to using the CV potting mix we recommend.
8. There’s also no need to use expensive potting media such as Hydroton or other expanded media. The CV mix we recommend is economical and widely available.
9. If you are tempted to use Perlite (because we haven’t said anything bad about it yet), take a handful of Perlite and throw it into a bucket of water. You’ll notice that some of it sinks, some of it floats, and some of it is almost perfectly suspended in the middle of the bucket. Now take another handfull of Perlite and grind it together between your hands; notice the abrasive, sandpaper-like dust that results?
We shudder at the thought of Perlite loose in our systems, floating through at all levels from the water surface to the bottom of the tanks, abrading our pump shafts, impellers, and seals with each pass through the pump. We shudder even more about the possibility of it going through our fish’s gills until the fish died suffering from the abrasions on its breathing surfaces. You can try it, we’ll pass.
10. After the starts reach their optimum maturity in the sprouting table (which is when the little plants are about 1-1/2-2 inches tall, and their roots just barely start coming out of the net pots into the plastic trays) they get moved into the rafts in the Aquaponics system. You may be tempted to “let them get a little bigger and stronger” before the transfer. Don’t wait longer!
If you wait too long to take the sprouted pots out of the trays, the roots will be tangled with the hole or the mesh at the bottom of the tray, and will rip off, “shocking” the little plant. This shock can be so severe that the plant doesn’t recover much, or at all, and will never grow well. So be sure to take your babies out of the sprouting table and put them into the system rafts at the appropriate stage of growth.
11. Conventional university sprouting methods involve putting the seeds into potting media in net pots in some kind of a plastic tray that holds a bunch of them for easy handling, then they go on a nursery table (which is a wire-topped table that drains excess water out the bottom of the wire onto the ground). You water them with an overhead spray or by hand-watering using tapwater until they sprout and you put them into the rafts in the aquaponics system. Sprouting this way involves a lot of hand labor in the watering, and since it does not use any kind of nutrient solution for watering, the sprouted plants grow more slowly than is possible with other methods. It’s a waste of your time.
12. We tried putting the net pots directly into the system rafts, and they sprouted and grew just fine. There were two problems, though: it used up a lot of aquaponics “real estate” that could have had more mature plants in it making money for the farm; and about 30% of the plants sprouted in this fashion simply rotted off at the roots and fell over, requiring replacement. It’s a waste of your time and your system real estate.
13. We tried vacuum seeders, because the university recommended them. These hook up to a vacuum cleaner and hold your seeds in place. When you turn the vacuum seeder upside down over a tray of pots, then turn off the vacuum, all the seeds drop conveniently into the centers of the pots. Fortunately Tim knows how to make stuff like this, so we made two excellent vacuum seeders (of slightly different designs) rather than purchase two (for up to $675 each). Although both these seeders worked as well as the commercially available ones, what we found is that even the commercially available ones don’t work that well. Even after we got fast on the vacuum seeders, we found that the same person could actually seed 50% more in the same time by hand seeding.
14. If you let the sprouts in the sprouting table go “too long” between waterings, you can “shock” them, which can make them grow poorly or not at all during the rest of their life. We had some plants that just didn’t do well at all, and when we analyzed the situation, we found out an employee had neglected to water them for two to three days at a stretch. This wasn’t enough to kill them, but was enough to shock them so that they wouldn’t grow. If you can identify a “shocked” batch of seedlings like this, throw them away and start over! They will never grow! And water your sprouting tables once a day after this, like clockwork!
Francois van Wyk says
Hi
Have you got any information on the use of growgrips in “YOUR” system and maybe the pros and cons in using it?
Thanks
Tim Mann says
Aloha Francois
We saw growgrips being used at one of our affiliate’s farms, and got a chance to time how long it took to clean each one, and the percentage being thrown away out of each planting cycle because too many plant roots had infiltrated the growgrip foam. Our impression was that they each took twice as long to clean as our slit pots do, and about one-tenth to one-fifth of the growgrips were thrown away each planting cycle because they simply had too many roots shot through them to clean.
There are also potential issues surrounding the process of sterilization, which is necessary in a commercial operation. We immerse our slit pots (which easily sink) in a plastic garbage can full of 1% hydrogen peroxide to sterilize them, at every second or third planting cycle. This process is going to be extremely problematic with a growgrip because they mostly float, and to truly sterilize them you have to get the sterilization liquid into ALL the little interstitial spaces in the foam, which seems next to impossible.
Those spaces will do a beautiful job of harboring pythium or fusarium, as well as many more varieties of fungi, viruses, and bacteria, and I don’t believe you’ll be able to sterilize them. While losing a raft of lettuce is an annoyance to a backyard grower, this can translate to losing $5-10,000 worth of crop for even a small commercial grower. Thus, this is a major concern to any commercial grower.
At a cost of 30 cents each, and us planting 10,000 seeds per week, this adds a total of $10,400 to $13,000 to our labor and materials costs per year, on an operation that grosses around $125,000 on the vegetables. This is an unacceptable additional cost that achieves no additional benefit for a commercial operation.
While far too expensive for commercial operations to use, they’re probably a good way to go for small backyard operations, assuming the germination is the same (we never tested this).
Aloha, Tim………….
Tim Mann says
If they’re going into the rafts too soon, before they’ve developed much in the way of roots, you will also get damping off. To avoid this, remove the sprouts from the tables and transfer them to the rafts when the roots are just starting to come out of the bottom of the pots while they’re in the sprouting table. You have to check frequently to determine when this is happening, and take an average of eight or ten pots to get a good read on the situation. Then, move them right away before the roots get too long, because they’ll go out the bottom of the tray and rip off when you move them (see #10 above in the main post).
Also, what’s the humidity? Are they getting rained on frequently, outside? Or are they inside a greenhouse that might be very humid? Those factors can also contribute to sprouts damping off after they’ve been transferred to the rafts.
Aloha, Tim……….
Nathan Coe says
In a green house with sides and doors open. The plants were getting plenty of air movement. I believe after doing more research that the foam boards (which were identical in chemical make up to blue board but not as dense) I was using were absorbing to much water which was setting the net pots in about an inch and a half of water which in turn caused the sprouts to damp off. I bought a few pieces of blue board and it appears this is fixing the problem. Would that make sense though if the plants in the rafts were consistently sitting in that much water that they would damp off?
Tim Mann says
Ah, yet more information! Yes, they will damp off at that tender age if the rafts are that sunk down into the water.
One thing we can almost guarantee: anytime you use something different than what we specify in our manuals (and blog), that we’ve determined works from using it for 8 years, you are doing an EXPERIMENT. It may seem like a small change to you, but let me give you an example, based on this feedback about the rafts:
If you’re not using Blue Board, you’re using something else. Even some styrofoams that are identical in chemical makeup to the Blue Board have “blowing agents” that are carcinogenic; some of these styrofoams are even mildly toxic to both plants and fish, such as the polyisocyanurate foams.
Next: Blue Board is “closed cell”, which means it CAN’T soak up water; the board you’re using soaks up water, as evidenced by your comment “absorbing too much water….”. Blue Board doesn’t soak up ANY water. So you have introduced a NEW, unknown element into your aquaponics system as part of an EXPERIMENT, and there is no way of predicting the outcome. Your styrofoam rafts are sinking and may be toxic; I hope that explanation is good enough.
And, as you mention, switching to Blue Board seems to be fixing the problem. Nuff said?
Aloha, Tim………..
Nathan Coe says
Thank you for the information. The insulation expert was miss leading about his product it appears, he guaranteed me it was the same product.
Thanks again
Nathan Coe says
I am still having problems with damp off. I use CV at the 60 to 40 ratio and am still having plants damp off. How far do the net pots actually sit in the water or do just the roots make it to the water. Also if you mix less vermiculite in with the coconut coir will it hold less water and fix the problem?
Tim Mann says
Aloha Nathan
I’m a bit confused by you saying “sit in the water”, for the pots never “sit” in the water for long in the sprouting tables; you run the water in a sprouting table for maybe ten minutes a day; and then the slope in the bottom of the sprouting table gradually drains all the water off the far end so the plants are not sitting in the water.
If you are leaving water in the sprouting table, and the pots are sitting in it, you will get a lot of damping off because they are too wet! We tried this at first, with about 1 inch of water constantly flowing through level tables, and lost 30-40% of the baby plants.
When we sloped the tables so they would drain, and only had the water on for 10 minutes a day, the damping off problem entirely disappeared.
Nathan says
I was meaning in the system. I was having trouble with sprots damping off once they were put into the system. I had no problem with the sproting tables.